Is Your Long Island Roof Ready for Storm Season? A Checklist

Long Island has a long history of major storms, from the hurricane of 1938 through Gloria in 1985 and Irene and Sandy in 2011 and 2012. Wind and wind-driven rain are a recurring risk, and many storm roof failures start at points that were already weak.

Here is a way to assess where your roof stands before storm season, and again after any major storm.

How wind damages a roof

Wind does not damage a healthy roof evenly. It finds weak points. The ones that most often turn into claims:

Lifted or corroded drip edge. Drip edge is the metal flashing at the eave and rake that directs water off the deck edge and into the gutter. If it is corroded, poorly fastened or missing, wind can get under the edge of the roofing material at the eave, one of the highest-stress locations in a storm.

Failed step flashing. Step flashing runs up the wall line at dormers and additions, one piece per course of shingles. When it corrodes or was installed incorrectly, water gets in at the wall-roof junction in driven rain. It is typically invisible from the ground.

Fastening at the eave. Many wind-related failures begin at the eave. Fastening there matters, and you will not know if it was done properly until wind tests it.

Ridge cap. The ridge is the highest wind-exposure point on the roof. Ridge cap that has lifted exposes the joints below to direct water.

What you can check from the ground

Walk the perimeter of the house and look at:

Shingles. Lifted corners, missing tabs, and areas that look smoother than the rest, which indicate granule loss. A layer of dark grit in the gutter bottom means the shingles are shedding granules.

Gutters. Look for a gap between the gutter and fascia. It can mean hanger screws have pulled out or the fascia is soft. Sagging, misaligned gutters and detached leaders are storm hazards. A gutter that is marginally attached before a storm is unlikely to stay attached through one.

Chimney flashing. From the ground you should be able to see metal flashing at the chimney base, not only caulk. Sealant over old flashing is a temporary fix, and sealant cracks and loses adhesion. The proper repair is metal flashing set into the mortar joints or stepped.

Soffit. Look along the underside of the eave for sagging, holes or material pulled from the fascia. An opening is a path for wind and water, and for animals.

Ridge line. Sight along the ridge from the end of the house. It should look straight. A wavy or sagging ridge suggests something is moving at the peak and should be looked at.

What needs a professional

Ground-level checks have limits. Step flashing at dormers, skylight flashing, valleys and fastening patterns need a close look from the roof: checking flashing laps, lifting a course of shingles at the eave to see the underlayment and fastening, and examining valley material for cracks or exposed seams. Do not climb onto the roof yourself.

If your roof is getting on in years, a professional inspection before storm season is worth considering. Finding a problem early usually means a repair, and finding it after a storm can mean interior damage as well.

Keep a record

A dated, written inspection report with photographs gives you a record of the roof's condition at a point in time. Keep it with your house records. Questions about how that record interacts with your insurance policy are for your insurer or agent.

Gutters and storms

Full gutters are heavy, and wind loads a gutter system that is already carrying wet leaves and water. Gutters that are loosely attached, with loose screws, soft fascia or hangers spaced too far apart, are likely to fail in a storm. When a gutter section tears away in high wind, it can take fascia and soffit with it, which turns a gutter problem into a structural one.

Clean your gutters ahead of storm season, flush the leaders, and check that hangers are solid. If a gutter is pulling away from the fascia anywhere, repair it before the next storm, not after.

If you would like your roof or gutters assessed, get a quote.